VBefore the Dior show, young people line up over hundreds of meters in the Tuileries. They are waiting for the stars: the actress Rosamund Pike, for example, and the influencer Chiara Ferragni, of course. For the first time in a year and a half, Paris is hosting another prêt-à-porter week with mainly face-to-face shows. Dior on Tuesday is the start of a long week of fashion. Everyone is there: fans, stars, including wealthy customers from America: “Hi, Sarah from Boston.” – “Hi, Los Angeles.” – “You look pretty.” Of course, they wear Dior: long skirts with blazers.
Half an hour later, when the models pose for a show like playing figures in the stage set, which looks like a parlor game, the clientes will have to mentally say goodbye to their long skirts. The creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, of whom not only bags and shoes sell well at Dior, as is customary at other luxury houses, but also clothing, cites the sixties, the era of the designer Marc Bohan, who was longer than Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano held the position of chief together, namely from 1960 to 1989. Maria Grazia Chiuri in any case shows babydoll dresses, skimpy costumes, almost all of the model’s knees are visible. All in optimistic colors: yellow, water blue, grass green, pink. In addition, the motifs of wild animals, with which connoisseurs can identify the pieces as Dior in the coming spring – and precisely for this reason make the brand even more valuable.
A spring with a new attitude towards life
The designers, that much is clear after the first few days, are calling for an end to the corona pandemic in spring. They work towards this attitude towards life. Paris puts you in a good mood in these early autumn days, the trains there are well booked, and so are the terraces of the bistros. Most of them are of course not there because of the fashion, but because of a different kind of packaging art, because of Christos Arc de Triomphe. Finally travel again, finally an art experience again.
The clothes for the hopeful occasions next year are already there: Koché designer Christelle Kocher covers her pieces with an extra portion of sequins and feathers, Dries Van Noten, even if only switched on digitally from Antwerp, sets off fireworks and sets them Color explosion then on a coat. And Rochas, with his patterns, is reminiscent of the fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who shaped the eighties and nineties with colorful figures and motifs and who hits the mood in Paris very well these days. An exhibition about him is currently running at the Center Pompidou. But the example of Rochas designer Charles de Vilmorin also gives hope that careers can begin even in a pandemic: he graduated from the Paris Chamber of Fashion in 2019 and became chief designer at Rochas in 2021, at the age of just 24.
Prêt-à-porter shows
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Welcome back to Paris
It is reminiscent of Olivier Rousteing, the chief designer at Balmain. He was 25 years old when he took the post ten years ago. It was worth it for the house. His predecessor Christophe Decarnin had already done some development work, but if you consider that the brand, founded in 1945, was on the verge of bankruptcy in 2004 and was sold for 485 million euros in 2016, then this is also thanks to this young man, who himself is a Lives cross-channel life, has millions of followers on TikTok and Instagram and filmed a documentary about finding his mother with Netflix. He was adopted from the orphanage as a toddler and grew up as a black with white parents in Bordeaux. He invites people to take part in his world, he himself just told FAZ-Magazin: “Pop culture is important, because pop means popular, means population.”
Always the biggest stage
Olivier Rousteing is always looking for the biggest stage, and on Wednesday, for his anniversary, he finds it: the Seine Musicale, a concert hall on the outskirts of Paris. The fashion people make up the smaller part of his guests, Rousteing really invited the population into his world that evening. His “Balmain Army”, i.e. his clients, who mostly wear micro-sequined dresses with shoulder pads, have their own check-in. Scan the vaccination card and off you go: Stall magic with Balmain fan merchandise, live acts, champagne at the bar. It is rare for a designer to stay in a house for ten years now. That a house treats its designer to such a major event at a time when the Corona incidence in Paris is at least 62, however.
Everything is bigger here. First Beyoncé transmits a recorded hymn over the loudspeaker: At that time there were many “who could not imagine that someone who looks like this could run a Parisian house. You have kicked this door for more than ten years ”. Then Rousteing, this not quite so young man, shows what he has achieved in the ten years: his fashion reveals more of the body than it does clothing. Nevertheless, it is wearable with dignity, also by the plus-size models Alva Claire and Precious Lee. When they step on the stage, the population cheers. She cheers again when Naomi Campbell appears. And again, when even the former première lady, Carla Bruni, takes the stage as a model. And loudest when Olivier Rousteing bows to the finale.
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source https://pledgetimes.com/pret-a-porter-in-paris-puts-you-in-a-good-mood/
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